Editor's Note: Emma Kaliel wrote this account about her 2023 Snorri Experience. The 2024 Snorri participants are currently engaged in their journeys as Emma's article was published on the Icelandic Roots blog.
By Emma Kaliel
I had two goals for the Snorri Program: the first was to learn more of my family history to bring it back and tell my Langamma more about her heritage, and the second was to ride an Icelandic horse. Both of these would be possible during my homestay, as my host and third cousin twice removed, Gunnar Rögnvaldsson, had told me that he has lots of horses.
Two weeks of my summer were spent in the country outside of Varmahlíð, where Gunnar runs a retreat center owned by the church. My stay started out strong with lots of traditional Icelandic fare and travelling around the northern peninsulas. Gunnar is very knowledgeable about the area, history, and people, so after just one road trip with him, I was brimming with stories and facts. I could have listened to him talk for hours about anything and everything, he has the natural air of a talented storyteller.
From Gunnar as well as throughout the trip, I learned that our ancestors were perseverant and hard working (which was easy to believe when taking into account that both of our families are still in the farming industry). I can also attribute a portion of my stubbornness to my Icelandic blood, but also the good natured and kind hearted side of my family too. The Icelanders needed to be stubborn and persistent to survive the harsh winter climate, but they had faith that everything will work out in the end (þetta reddast!) which takes an incredible amount of positive thinking. I still see these qualities every day in myself and my family, and I am proud of it.
Alas, not all my wishes would come true so easily! Halfway through my stay, I caught the cold that had been travelling around the country from Gunnar and his daughter, Dagný, and was miserably couch ridden for days. I felt incredibly guilty that I could not help out at the center as much as I wanted to, but since both of my cousins had experienced what I was going through, they were adamant that I shouldn’t push myself until I was back in full health. So, without going into too much detail, this was the Worst Week.
On my last day, however, I was finally able to breathe through my nose again and only with the occasional sniffle! Time with my cousins was running out and I wanted to make the most of it before I had to say goodbye. Not to mention that this was one of the rare sunny days in Iceland too! As Gunnar and Dagný were busy at the center, I spent the majority of the day packing my suitcase and preparing for the last leg of the trip. After supper, Dagný drove us about 20 minutes away to a natural geothermal pool, named Fosslaug for the nearby waterfall. We spent a good chunk of time there, relaxing in the hot water and soaking in the last of the sun before it “set” (went behind the mountains).
When we got back to the house it was nearly 11 PM but Gunnar knew how much I wanted to go riding during my trip and he was determined to fulfill that goal. Despite the late hour, we drove over to where he keeps his horses and set out for a midnight hack. One of my favourite aspects of Iceland is that it never gets dark during the summer, and my night owl self was gleeful at the prospect of my favourite pastime at night! My horse’s name was Gosi, which is the Icelandic version of Pinocchio, and the nickname for a very unreliable person too. Contrary to his name, Gosi’s tölt was smooth and steady and he had a very warm temperament. So between Fosslaug and Gosi, this was undoubtedly the Best Day.
I am so incredibly grateful to Gunnar and Dagný for opening their home and life to me, I cannot wait to go back! One day I would love to reciprocate and show them around the family farm, as well as introduce them to the dozens of excited cousins living in the area. I would also like to thank Icelandic Roots for their support and generosity, it was truly a lifechanging experience.